Somewhere in the mid-1990s my parents started dining out more, notably in Philadelphia. They took Rhonda and me out to Suzanna Foo in probably 1997 or 1998, and it was a revelation. Things have gotten better locally, and a nice dinner out didn’t necessitate a drive to Philly. But Restaurant Row still beckons, and we thought Aaron, an aspiring chef, might enjoy Steven Starr’s take on a classic steakhouse. Fois gras was had.